Today, we’ll talk about another popular beardie species- the central bearded dragon, also known as the ‘inland bearded dragon,’ discovered by Ernst Ahl (1926).
This species differs from its other subspecies, genus “POGONAS’ because of its triangular head shape, which may have a striped pattern along the jaws. Males often develop darker “beards” and more pronounced femoral pores than females.
Expect them to be dull brow to tan with gold or red highlights because animal diversity suggests this species’ color highly on the region’s soil they inhabit.
Central Bearded Dragon Habitat
Just like its subspecies, the central bearded dragon also hails from Australia. Expect a wide natural distribution of inland beardies in eastern & central Australia. If you’re touring Australia, you’ll have the best chances to spot them from the eastern half of South Australia to the southeastern northern territory.
Some common regions of this particular species include:
- Western New South Wales
- Broken Hills
- Riverina region
If you’re in central Australia, go to the following places to picture them!
- Rocky deserts
- arid woodland
- Semiarid woodland
In those areas, they like inhabiting.
- Dry Forests
- Deserts
- Scrublands
Pogona vitticeps are mostly spotted basking & resting at tree stumps, branches, boulders, and fallen branches. If you live in or are planning to visit such places, don’t be surprised by these semiarboreal lizards basking on fence posts & picnic tables, too.
Your lucky chances will be in the morning or early evening when they’re frequently exposed to warm sunlight on rocks or branches. Visiting in the afternoon will be a waste of time; as they retreat to caves, they dig shady areas to get baked from the scorching sun heat.
Also, note that they’re good at climbing, so also pay attention to tree limbs or in bushes when they spend just as much time as they do on the ground.
November is the best month to spot males, whereas females are more active at basking in August. We can say that late spring suits males while females have some winter winds, with a 15º c air temperature.
Based on interviews & research, I learned that pogona vitticeps are often spotted on roads after dark, especially after a very hot & sunny day. This species may be more active after dusk than we realized before. If you spot any, don’t get too close, especially if they puff, hiss, or display beards, which is more like a warning before they resort to biting, and trust me, you’ll not like that bit. A bite from a central bearded dragon can get painful, leaving bruises if it breaks the skin.
Central Bearded Dragon Picture
Central Bearded Dragon Size
From nose to tail tip, all adults of these species can grow up to 60 cm.
Fun fact: about 50% of that length is all tail, almost matching the head and body combined. According to the Australian Museum, the guys in this species sport brighter colors and beefier heads compared to the ladies.
Now, regarding weight, Anamalia suggests that an adult-sized central bearded dragon is likely to clock in between 250-510 grams.
But, a captive-bred & raised beardie’s weight & height can vary depending on a few factors, such as:
- Stage Of Life (Each Beardies’ Life Stage Comes With Different Sets Of Challenges For Owners)
- Diet (What They Eat In The Wild Or What They’re Fed)
- Gender (Females Grow Slower Than Males)
- Genetics (Genetics Plays Crucial Role In Beardies’ Growth Rate)
- Health Condition (Any Health Issue Interfere With Pet’s Weight, Growth Rate, & Behavior)
- Age (Bearded Dragons’ Growth Slow Down As They Age, Especially After Sexual Maturity Or 12 Months Of Age)
- Care (Pet Beardies Need Proper Tank Setup, Best Lighting & Nutritious Diet Which Vary As They Age)
Central Bearded Dragon Lifespan
The Central Bearded Dragon can live around 6 to 15 years on average. However, Human Ageing Genomic Resources suggest that a Central Bearded Dragon will likely live around 12 years, on average, in captivity (which is the longest of all subspecies from the genus Pogonas, as per research). Unfortunately, most fail to live that far and get hunted by predators in the wild. On average, the inland dragons live only 3-5 years.
Currently, there is no evaluation of this species’ conservation status on the IUCN Red List because of its widespread population & popularity as a common pet. Currently, it’s not endangered. But when it comes to knowing bearded dragon predators, Toronto Zoo suggests that snakes and birds of prey are the only ones. Aside from that, there are no significant threats for beardies.
Note that Academic Accelerator warns against the vulnerability of captive bred & kept pogona vitticeps against Agamid Adenovirus.
If you’re planning to adopt one, you should know that their longevity will be dependent on:
- Where Do You Keep Them? (They Need A Proper Tank Setup With Hiding & Climbing Decorations, Adequate Temperature & Lighting)
- What You Feed Them? (They Need An Omnivorous Diet That Fulfills All Their Nutritional Needs & Appetite For The Best Health)
- How You Care For Them? (They Must Gently Be Handled To Avoid Stress And Played With Or Trained With Patience)
Central Bearded Dragon Diet
They’re not picky eaters, as they live in areas with food/prey scarcity. They’re used to eating plant matter, possibly covering up to 80-90% of their total diet, but not limited to it. They’re also opportunistic & omnivorous and occasionally hunt small animals too. A few of the Animals Bearded Dragons Eat include small lizards & rodents. Since they’re also lizards and need protein sources, they get this from the following:
- Dubia roaches, Rollie pollies, Red wigglers, etc., are safe insects for bearded dragons that they occasionally eat whenever they can.
- Talking about worms that bearded dragons can eat, superworms, calciworms, mealworms, earthworms, and garden worms look like their favorites.
- In terms of bugs for bearded dragons, there are a few options.
There are also many vegetables and fruits for bearded dragons that are completely safe to feed. Plus, the bearded dragon veggie list is long & comprehensive. When keeping them in captivity, their diet should be like this.
| Vegetables: | Collard Greens, Mustard Greens, Carrots, Bell Peppers, Squash, Zucchini | Daily |
| Fruits: | Apples, Blueberries, Peaches, Strawberries, Watermelon | 2-3 times per week |
| Small Animals: | Crickets, Mealworms, Dubia Roaches, Silkworms | Daily |
| Insects: | Waxworms, Hornworms, Butter Worms | 1-2 times per week |
| Leafy Greens: | Dandelion Greens, Turnip Greens, Escarole | 3-4 times weekly |
Central Bearded Dragon Care
Terrarium
As per UFAW Companion Animal Handbook, you should not house more than one inland dragon in captivity as they’re very social. Plus, they need enough space for mental & physical stimulation, which only a 40-gallon-sized tank can provide. Gllass tank is less prone to scratching and offer easier visibility. Just make sure it has screen top offering proper ventilation.
Humidity
As per the University of Queensland, you must offer 30-40& RH at the top 45%. That’s it. Too high/too low RH is a fatal condition for beardies and can cause health concerns.
Sometimes, you might find bearded dragon humidity 70 at night, which can be unhealthy. Keep the bearded dragon night time humidity within the recommended range, too.
Substrates & Decorations
I warn you against using sand, wood chips, fine gravel, calcium sand, corn cob granules, or substrates. You should avoid any substances that are easy to swallow/ingest for beardies, causing impaction and sometimes death.
The best substrates I find healthy for eastern bearded dragon terrariums are newspaper or, the newest trend, ceramic tile. Indoor or outdoor carpeting is also an acceptable substrate for eastern bearded dragons.
As Advanced Veterinary Care of San Elijo suggests, reptile carpet for bearded dragons is also a 100% safe solution to be used. But you must pay attention to cleaning sand mats or carpets using the right Carpet Cleaner. Since they like climbing and hiding,
It would help if you started with reptile carpets, as these are best & 100% safe for all beardies, and burrows & hiding areas like burrows & hiding areas are a must. Also, the humid hide is necessary for the shedding period. You can use moss for bearded dragons’ humid hide.
Handing
Be gentle & careful while handling young pogona. Those can be fast & wily, easily slip through your hand, and get injured. If you want to pick a young one, try sliding one hand gently under its chest, close to the front legs. Make sure you’re using your other hand to support the tail.
This way, your pet feels snug & secure when held close to your body. Don’t mind him climbing up your shoulder if it’s an adult. Keep them for a maximum of 60 hrs outside their terrarium, especially if you live in an arid region. The more you keep your pet out, the more docile they become.
Cleanliness & Maintenance
Cleaning & maintenance is an essential part of all beardie species care. Ensure you clean their water & food bowl, remove uneaten food or any bowel movement, and replace their substrate once a week at least. A deep & thorough cleaning of their terrarium once a week is necessary for their well-being using home solutions or commercially vet-recommended solutions like f10.
Temperature
Provide ambient temperature gradient, with requires two thermometers installed on each side of the enclosure that accurately measure temps to help you keep it within recommended ranges, i.e., 80-88° F (cooler side) & 95-105° (warmer side). Let the temp naturally drop if it is not less than 70° F.
Lighting
Central bearded dragon needs 12 hours of photoperiod, which you can manage by providing proper lighting that offers adequate heat, UVB, and UVA in one go.
This will help them process calcium and vitamin D effectively. Note: You must change the bulbs every six months, no matter how good or effective it seems, because the UVB fades over time.
Vet Care
Like any other pet, bearded dragons can also get sick anytime due to dietary changes, nutritional deficiency, or an unsanitary environment, directly affecting their lifespan and quality of life. At a minimum, you should book an annual appointment with a professional bearded dragon vet for necessary testings, which include:
- Proper Teeth Examination
- Body Condition Evaluation
- Assessment For Metabolic Bone Disease
- Fecal Analysis For Intestinal Parasites
- Blood Work To Check Internal Organ Function And Calcium Level.
Click Here To Learn More About Bearded Dragon Vet Cost.
Grooming
In terms of grooming, regular bathing is a must, like 2-3 times a week.
This allows them to drink some water and regulates their bowel movement for easy excretion. Water should not be deeper than ½ inch to 1 inch when bathing baby central beardies.
For adults, 1-2 inches of deep water is ideal. If you want to know to make a bearded dragon poop, you massage their belly with light pressure using your thumb.
If your beardie looks scared or anxious, offer a roll of towel or rock to climb on and soap or detergent while being careful about getting the water on their eyes or ears.
Food
If your central bearded dragon is an adult, feed it 2-3 types of leafy greens & veggies daily, covering 50-55% of their overall diet. Flowers, herbs & fruits are best as treats only should be at most 5% of their daily servings. The portion should be worms & insects like 20-30, but they must be live, gut-loaded, and dusted with calcium. Also, please provide them with multivitamins & calcium supplements as vet advice.
Central Bearded Dragon Price
On amazingamazon.com.au, the inland beardies are being sold at $149. But in the morph market, they’re priced between $139-$349 based on their color, rarity & other specifications. In US pet stores, Central bearded dragon with their common traits & color is also available for $99-$199.
Central Bearded Dragon For Sale
Pogon Vitticeps, aka central bearded dragon, are easily available at pet stores in the united states. However, I insist on adopting from a reputable breeder who also offers health certificates & insurance with their pet. Just research your locality, and you’ll find a reputable breeder of this species. Driving a few miles to get a healthy reptilian friend is a better choice than purchasing from pet stores that do inhumane & unethical breeding practices.
5 Central Bearded Dragon Facts
- Since the 1960s, the export of inland beardies has been strictly banned. Hence, the ones you see being sold & kept as pets outside Australia are thought to have been smuggled out between 1974 and 1990.
- Do you know that the central bearded dragon is currently the most common species that is easily & cheaply available for people to adopt as pets?
- To make this species more marketable & expensive, breeders are focused on unethical, unnatural, and inhumane breeding practices for specific colors like gold or red phase.
- Very few know, but pogona vitticeps are slightly venomous. But don’t worry; that’s harmless to humans. It only affects small insects; I mean bearded dragon prey.
- Another little-known fact about their head anatomy is that it is shaped to collect water on top, which funnels to their mouth. (Very useful gift from nature for these desert dwellers)
Central Bearded Dragon Vs Eastern Bearded Dragon
| Differences | Central Bearded Dragon | Eastern Bearded Dragon |
| Color | Dull Brow To Tan With Gold Or Red Highlights | Mostly Grey Color |
| Behavior | Less Aggressive & Friendliest Among The Species | More Aggressive Than The Central Bearded Dragon |
| Spikes | More Straight Set Pattern | More Arrow Shaped |
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